Exploring Dried Chiles @Oaktown Spice Shop
By Brian Miller
Food & Wine named Oaktown Spice Shop one of the “World’s Best Spice Shops,” noting they grind and blend their own spices twice a week. They also offer a broad range of workshops that go beyond herbs and spices. This month, for example, they are offering a Japanese knife sharpening and demo by Bernal Cutlery, handmade linocut prints and stationary, flavors of Jurusalem, and roti and more: India’s favorite flatbreads.
As a “heat” afficianado, I was eager to attend “Exploring Dried Chiles” with hands-on demos by Oaktown Spice Shop co-founder and co-owner, John Beaver. My personal familiarity with dried chiles was limited to various attempts at mole sauce.
Beaver started with a historical overview of chiles. I was surprised to learn that virtually all chiles originated in South America and spread through the trade routes in the 15th century. This is staggering to consider since chiles are so integral to the food and culture of places like India. It’s hard to imagine India without chiles.
It was refreshing to not limit talk about chiles to terms like Scoville units and one’s ability to withstand heat. Instead, every participant was invited tos deeply inhale the aroma of each chile as they were introduced. And Oaktown Spice Shop has the most beautiful chile pods you can imagine. Amongst them were Guajillo, Chili De Arbol, Tien Tsin, Aji Amarillo, New Mexican Red, Ancho, Habanero, and Pasilla De Oaxaca.
In the course of two hours, we would learn three recipes: a traditional Mexican Salsa Macha, a Fermented Chile Sauce, and a Molcajete Style Tomatillo and Chile Salsa. We mostly watched John demo. I had never heard of leaving garlic in the husk when sautéing. It keeps the flavor sealed in and you just discard the husk later. It’s little details like this that change the way you think about even the most perfunctory food preparation habits.
It was a bit confusing prepping for three recipes all at the same time, but once you get the gist of each recipe, it all made sense. The one work product we would walk away with was our own personal mason jar filled with the makings of a fermented chile sauce. We selected two chiles that we would soak in our jar with brine containing live, probiotic culture as well as garlic cloves. Two weeks later, this ferment would be ready to puree in a blender.
The best workshops of this kind give you the basics to explore on your own. If you are new to fermenting, as I was, you have to learn about things like the appearance of kahm yeast on top of your ferment and how that is discernibly different from harmful mold. Sometimes all it takes is being walked through the basic steps to develop a level of confidence and inspiration to experiment on your own. I will not only personally be delving into dried chiles, but also fermenting and preserving. This workshop was a great introduction to both literal cultures in food and the food cultures they inspire.
This workshop was held Tuesday April 30, 2019 at the Oakland location of Oaktown Spice Shop at 546 Grand Avenue. The cost with Eventbrite’s service charge was $53. The next workshop, “Flavors of Jerusalem” will be held May 14 at the Albany (North Berkeley), California location at 1224 Solano Avenue. Tickets are available on Eventbrite for $60 per person.
https://oaktownspiceshop.com/
COMIDAZO: A Taste and Cultura Event That Delivers!
by Brian Miller
Comidazo presenter, Armando Tam stated, “I don’t want to pigeon hole Latin food with Latin music or feature a cover band. Comidazo is about mixing food with dope music from all different genres. This truly reflects the cultura of the Bay Area.” Tam delivered on his promise and then some.
Held at the Roccapulco Lounge, at 3140 Mission Street on April 27, 2019, this cultura event was a rare treat, even for the possible culinary saturation of the Bay Area. In terms of food, guests were introduced to an incredible cross sampling that you just wouldn’t find anywhere else. Some of these Chefs were personal Chefs or traveling Chefs, so this was a rare opportunity to sample their wares, all in one room at the same time.
“Yo Soy Ceviche” had to have been one of the most popular booths with people lining up all through the event. Chef Nory aka: “Ms. Ceviche” turned out her signature “Leche de Tigre” and other Peruvian inspired dishes with almost manic energy.
Chef Terry Braggs has become a “viral level” Chef in the Bay Area, having attended culinary school at Diablo Valley College, he has worked as an Executive Chef, appeared twice on the Food Network’s “Guy’s Grocery Games” and he teaches and consults. This attendee sampled Bragg’s Jamaican Jerk Meatballs which were served on a bed of steamed kale with a balsamic dressing.
“Truly Exquisite” was the epitome of Southern Hospitality. The owner, Tinisha Johnson, pulled me aside and introduced me to everything from Vegan Stuffed Mushrooms in a Brown Butter Sauce to Turkey Sausage Dirty Rice with Creole Mustard and Sundried Tomato Red Pepper Sauce and mini size Sweet Potato Pies. It is such a treat to find this kind of authentic Southern cooking in California.
Chef Jennifer at “Nicaraguan Flavors” was equally welcoming. Her Flank
Steak in Chimichurri Sauce with Maduros Puree and Maduro Medallions was accented with a brilliant ruby red colored dragon fruit reduction sauce.
“Alamar Kitchen + Bar” is a local favorite named after Chef Nelson German Alamar who served an unforgettable Coconut Banana Bread Pudding. They also had delicious Sol beers iced down, a Comidazo sponsor. There is something really decadent about washing down rich banana bread pudding topped with generous dollops of fresh whipped cream with an ice cold Sol beer.
“Catered With Class” were absolutely charming. Chef Sheneen and Chef Ann offered “California Cuisine with a Dash of Southern Swag.” They served what they call a “Grits Trio” or “Grits 3 Way” which was pork belly, shrimp and lamb on a bed of grits. Sumptuous!
“Samara Southern Creations” is another Southern food with a twist concept. Chef Sarah won me over with a buttery, melt-in-your-mouth Braised Pork Belly over a savory slaw served on a crisp tortilla shell, that they call an “Asian Inspired Pork Belly Tostada.”
And I saved my personal favorite for last. Chef Gina Beltran aka: Chef G510, is that rare embodiment of when the chef, the cuisine and the love all become one. She was classically trained at Cordon Bleu and worked under Chef Jeffrey Scott at Aqua. Chef G proudly states that she is Puerto Rican, Hawaiian and gay and that her cuisine is a reflection of who she is. She rattled off the intricacies of her three different tasting samples so fast that it made my head spin. One dish was a kaleidoscope of flavors in a ceviche-like seafood cocktail with a wedge of fried plantain. Another was a mushroom and veggie filled empanada. Everything was mouth wateringly delicious!
After the tasting part of the event, music and dancing started. I was pretty much in a food coma, but feeling fully sated and very proud to live in a city that could host such an amazing culinary and cultural event with such talented, passionate and creative local Chefs. Bravo Comidazo!
Comidazo was held April 27, 2019 at the Roccapulco at 3140 Mission Street, San Francisco, CA. One tasting ticket allowed a taste sample from each booth. The cost for one person, include Eventbrite’s service charge was $75.
The next Comidazo will be held August 24, 2019 at the same location. Check Eventbrite.com for details.
Comidazo www.comidazo.com
Yo Soy Ceviche www.yosoyceviche.com
Chef Terry Braggs www.chefbraggs.com
Truly Exquisite www.trulyexquisitecatering.com
Nicaraguan Flavors on Facebook @nicaraguanflavors
Alamar Kitchen + Bar www.alamaroakland.com
Catered With Class www.cateredwithclassca.com
Samara Southern Creations on Instagram @samarasoutherncreations and T&S Specialty Pot Pies on Facebook @T&S Specialty Pot Pies
ChefG510 on Twitter and Instagram @ChefG510